Merry Christmas, Happy Hanukkah, Happy Kwanzaa and Festivus for the Rest of Us!

Thanks for reading in 2011.  Hopefully something I wrote or shared inspired you.  Now take some time over the next few days to spend with family and friends.  Just make sure you look good while doing so!

Happy Holidays,

Marcus

Dressing for the Office Holiday Party

If the way you dress for work leans toward dark suits and ties, the office holiday party is a chance to break out of the mundane.  Novelty ties and tacky Christmas sweaters are not an option.  What you can wear however, is a touch of holiday color such as this tartan necktie from Vineyard Vines.

This year I've opted for a navy and hunter green plaid bowtie from my friends at The Tiebar.

Try something different and let your holiday neckwear be the reason you're the talk of the office this year!

Guys' Night Out 2011

For those in the NY area, Lord & Taylor is having a guys' night out on Thursday, December 8th at the Fifth Avenue store.  Get a good deal on some new items for work and get some shopping help from the Jets Flight Crew Cheerleaders no matter what you're looking for!  http://intheknow.lordandtaylor.com/5/guys-night-out-2011/

Krimson By Kwame

Looking to buy yourself a holiday gift this year?  Consider some Krimson by Kwame neckwear.  Former Golman Sachs banker and Apprentice contestant, Kwame Jackson, has a luxurious line of neckties that will enhance your suit game and give you the perfect amount of necktie cleavage.  Kwame's ties are now available at Macy's, Dillards and JC Penny and online at www.krimsonbykwame.com.

So Fresh and So Clean

My office desk is a mess.  The top, which is on display, is cluttered but orderly.  However, the inside, the part not visible to passersby, gives a concise history of everyone I’ve met and all the lunches I’ve brought back to my desk over the last three years or so.  There are business cards from people I’ve glad-handed over drinks, plastic bags from takeout joints which I will one day recycle and until recently, a stack of menus.  There are also push pins, more staples than I’ll ever use and Post-it notes of various sizes and colors.  Yet amidst these junk drawers are also all the tools I need during the day to look my best. 

Over the years, I’ve compiled a list of items that I try keep at all times.  If I were more organized I’d keep them in a Dopp Kit but these days there isn’t much time for organization.  Here we go.

1.       Small Mirror – Because one should need to go to the men’s room to see if hair is sticking out of one’s nose.

2.       Hairbrush or Comb – Use with mirror above.

3.       Aspirin and Ibuprofen – Because sometimes Tuesday night turns into Wednesday morning.

4.       Cloth to clean glasses or eye drops for contacts – You need clear vision to see what’s coming your way.

5.       Breath Mints or Toothbrush and Paste – I don’t need to explain this one.

6.       Hand Lotion – Because dry, cracking mitts have no place at the Board Room table.

7.       Lint Roller – A little sprucing up between home and the office is never a bad thing.

8.       Tissues – Because keeping your nose clean in business is very important these days.

9.       Lip Balm – See #6 above and replace mitts with lips.

10.   Nail File – Bury this one way in the back of your drawer and use it sparingly.  But this is an important one to have because never at any point should you cut your nails at work.

11.   Quick Shine Sponge – This isn’t meant to replace a proper shine but rather to add a little sparkle if you’re having a dull day.

Guys keep some or all of these items at your desk and you’ll look your best all day.

Jeans (I couldn't think of something clever.)

If you’ve shopped for a pair of jeans lately you’ve noticed that the options are limitless.  Every men’s clothing store now carries a myriad of sizes, fits, and washes.  The last time I checked there was something like seven billion options when all most guys need is one great pair of jeans.  Finding that one great pair these days is on par with finding the right house to buy - you have to go through a lot of duds before finding the one with the right mix of comfort and style that leaves you with some money in your wallet.  However, when buying jeans to wear to work, some focused effort will narrow down your options, and make the purchase of this staple item an enjoyable experience.

Jeans for work should be subtle.  A dark wash works best and is the most versatile.  You can pair dark jeans with leather shoes, a collared shirt and a jacket or come across more relaxed and pair them with boots and a sweater.  Save the jeans with embellishments - painted rivets, stitching in bright colors, large logos, etc. for weekend wear.  On second thought, don’t ever buy jeans with any of the aforementioned embellishments.

You should also put in the effort to make sure the jeans you wear to work fit you well like the pants to your suits.  Play it safe here.  Skip the low rise jeans, the skinny jeans and the baggy jeans and go with a straight or slightly relaxed fit.  If you want a little flair, get a boot cut jean (pun intended).  Your jeans should sit at your waist and hit the top of your shoe so remember that the jeans will shrink a bit when you are trying them on. 

Now, I recognize that not all of us are built like the guys that model jeans so wearing a pair fresh out of the store may not work.  Tall guys may need to order jeans online to get the right length and short guys may have to get jeans hemmed.  All of us have some challenges with fit be it an expanding waistline, large thighs or yes, even a big behind.  If you’re dealing with any of those you can still get a good pair of jeans.  Just get a size larger than you would normally and take them to your tailor.

Finally, to narrow down your choices, ignore any pair of jeans over $100.  There are plenty of good choices under $100 and if you really like them buy two pair and rotate them.

Dark Wash Straight Fit Jeans from GAP - $60

WSJ Magazine - Congo Style

This weekend's WSJ Magazine focuses on what it is to be a man in 2011 and has some great features on style including one about dapper dressed men in the Congo.  These guys take it to another level!  Get your copy today or read it online at http://online.wsj.com/article/SB10001424053111903927204576574553723025760.html?mod=wsj_magazine_newsreel.

The Fall Guy

Football is season is here; the kids are back in school; and the days are getting shorter.  All of this means that the fall is just around the corner.  You can feel it in the air; the night air at least.  After spending the summer dressing to deal with heat and humidity, the fall allows you stretch your sartorial legs.  So with that, here are a few things I’m looking forward to wearing as the temperature begins its annual decline. 

Tweed

I’ve always liked tweed and it’s making a strong comeback this year.  From jackets, to three-piece suits to overcoats, there is about to be an explosion of tweed.  You can’t go wrong with the always appropriate Harris Tweed variety but the new tweed has a modern cut and is more comfortable to wear.  For work, I match my tweed jacket with wool pants.  It looks great in the office any day of the week.

Wool Plaid Neckties

A wool plaid necktie is unique.  I like to stand out a bit at work so putting one on adds texture and color to my outfit.  Furthermore, these ties tend to run on the skinny side so they also lend a contemporary feel to an otherwise standard work uniform.  There is a wide variety of wool plaid ties in department stores this year but for some really cool color combinations, shop online.

Fall Colors

When fall arrives, the changing leaves provide a colorful backdrop and I like to add some of these colors to my wardrobe.  This year I plan to stick to the darker shades of green and orange for work and complimentary colors such as the purple sweater vest above from Banana Republic.

Incorporating these trends into my fall wardrobe is easy, but I won’t wear them all at the same time.  I want to stand out at work, but not that much. 

Have a fall item you're looking forward to wearing?  Leave a comment below and let me know!

The Classic Khaki Pant

Khaki pants or chinos to be more exact have become a scapegoat in men’s fashion.  Some think of khakis as a must-have like underwear while others equate their rise in popularity with the demise of proper men’s attire.  A salesman at Nordstrom told me once that he won’t even buy a pair of khakis out of fear that he may actually wear them.

Historians note that the U.S. Army adopted khaki uniforms in 1898 and the popularity of the color and fabric spread within the military and among civilians.  It is only fitting then that khakis became part of a new uniform, the casual day ensemble.

But khakis don’t have to be relegated to casual Fridays.  They look great with a cotton button down shirt and a cotton jacket and since the fabrics are all the same, the outfit will look cohesive.  Add the necktie of your choice and you’ve got another polished look for work. 

This look works all year.  Just make sure your jacket and necktie are seasonally appropriate and don’t forget to iron those khakis! 

Essentials

Brandy has gotten in my way again.  No, not the drink but the shoe color.  While on the lookout for a black split toe lace up shoe, I was distracted by this great pair of Magnanni shoes at Nordstrom Rack. 

These shoes are almost as versatile as a black shoe, all leather, and the sole is stitched rather than glued.  I'd already figured out that the shoes would be a great addition to my wardrobe and that they'd add interest to something like a solid blue suit.  But I was still hestiant since I was originally shopping for black shoes.  However, when another shopper and shoe aficionado suggested I view the purchase as an investment because of the quality of the shoes, it was a done deal.

The Uncomfortable Zone

August is perhaps the most challenging month of the year to be a stylishly dressed man.  It’s hot, it’s humid and with no holidays, you have to wait until September for a long weekend.  Add to this, the need to wear a suit or long pants and a collared shirt to the office and it can be an uncomfortable month for dressing.  With the temperatures bordering on triple digits and the air so thick you can cut it with a knife, August is definitely the month to loosen things up.

On a recent Friday I had no meetings so I donned a navy and cream gingham shirt, cream colored khaki pants and sand colored suede shoes with no socks.  (See my May 1, 2011 post for help on shoes with no socks.)  Because I didn’t want to break up the color scheme, I wore a white belt.  I’ve worn all of these items to work separately before but that was the first time I wore them together.  Admittedly, I was hesitant that morning but the heat wave motivated.  I ended up with a work appropriate outfit and even got a compliment!

Now, an ensemble like this might be pushing the corporate casual boundaries in some offices, but if you can pull it off, go for it.  If you want to get out of the August uncomfortable zone, you may have to get out of your own comfort zone.

Shirts, shirts and more shirts! Part 2

Ok gentlemen and ladies.  The recent heat wave nearly zapped me of all of my creative energy but I’m back.  As promised, I’m following up to my last post on shirts.  There are more weaves and patterns in men’s shirts than you’d think and deciphering them all is probably not the best use of your time.  So I’m going to mention the three most common weaves for everyday work wear and save the others for a future moment of sartorial inspiration.  But first, a couple of shirting definitions.

Thread Count – We all know that the higher the thread count, the more luxurious and expensive the item.  But thread count really indicates how much yarn per pound is used for the item.  This is not to say that an 80 thread count shirt isn’t a good shirt but a 100 will do you better.

Ply – This refers to the number of yarns twisted together in a single thread.  I’ll keep it simple.  Two-ply is better than one-ply.

And now the weaves.

Oxford –The most casual of men’s shirting.  It’s coarse but still soft.  It can be worn pressed or slightly wrinkled.  It can be worn with a tie or without.  It’s a very versatile shirt because it can be worn with khaki pants or a suit.  The weave is a symmetrical basket weave with one yarn crossing two.  If the oxford shirt is not white, only the threads running in one direction are dyed.

Broadcloth – This is my preferred men’s shirting.  It has a finer yarn that is woven tightly so that there is a slight gleam.  It displays patterns well and is thinner and lighter than an oxford.  Broadcloth and poplin shirts are very similar and look better with a suit, particularly after six when you want a polished look.

Twill – This is a diagonal weave and often has a very high thread count.  The weave can be so tight that the shirt will feel silky.  A twill weave won’t give you the highly starched look of a broadcloth shirt but will be comfortable, drape nicely and perhaps most importantly, it is wrinkle resistant.

These weaves will come in different colors and patterns such as herringbone and gingham.  However, if you’re armed with this information you’ll be able to decipher most of your shirting options.

Shirts, shirts and more shirts!

I’ve probably purchased 100 shirts for work over the last 20 years or so.  I’ve purchased solid color shirts and shirts with stripes.  I’ve purchased shirts with contrasting collars, shirts with French cuffs and shirts that are only worn at the office holiday party.  I’ve purchased cotton shirts and cotton blend shirts.  I’ve purchased shirts with a spread collar and shirts with a point collar.   I’ve purchased shirts on which the sleeves were too short and on which the collars didn’t lay right.  I’ve purchased shirts at discount stores, outlet stores, and high end stores.  I’ve purchased a lot of shirts.  And at a conservative average of $30 per shirt, that’s $3,000 and this does not include the cost of sending them to the laundry.  What’s worse, most of those shirts ended up in a bag for Goodwill or in somebody else’s closet.  Clearly I had no shirt buying strategy.

Recently, I audited my shirt collection.  After Donald Trump questioned President Obama’s birth certificate I thought the least I could do was take the Trump labeled shirts out of my closet.  But that lead to a full shirt assessment.  I realized that my purchases weren’t consistent.  I have better quality shirts now but my collection is still all over the place.  I can see the results of desperation and frustration and the occasional impulse purchase.  I wear a 36 inch sleeve and I have more than a few 34/35s in my closet.  I have two green shirts that see the light of day on St. Patty’s Day.  I have a great lavender colored shirt that is too roomy and a dope purple and white gingham shirt that is an extra slim fit.  ( I should never be big enough or slim enough to fit either one properly.)    

There are a few steps one can take to avoid ending up with a motley crew of shirts.  First, get measured by a professional.  Most stores will only measure your neck and arms but you should ask to be measured around your chest and belly.  If you’re not exercising and watching what you eat, your belly is likely to be bigger than your chest so no need to linger in the slim fit section.  Second, know what you’re getting and what looks good on you.  For example, I like to wear spread collar shirts with a tie but a point collar with a sport coat.  You should decide if you like barrel cuffs or French cuff; chest pocket or no chest pocket; oxford, broadcloth or cotton twill. (More on these fabrics in my next post.)   Knowing these things in advance will help you when you get to the store or are talking to your shirt maker.  Third, identify a brand or a shirt maker you like and become a loyal customer.  Pay as much as you can for the shirts and buy as many as you can at the same time.  The reason is retailers can discontinue a line of clothing overnight so if you plan to come back later for more shirts, they may be gone.  If you can splurge for custom shirts, you’ll get a discount when ordering more than one shirt. 

In the instances when I’ve followed my own rules I’ve been pleased with the results.  I have six year old shirts that look almost as good as the day I bought them.  On the other hand, not following the rules has resulted in impulse buys of a poorly made shirts that I wear only a handful of times before demoting them to weekend wear.

Check back next week.  In my next post I’m going to discuss shirt fabrics and explain why some shirts look better with suits than others.

Style Interview with Rodney J. Hobbs, Actor

What types of work do you do?

I’m a TV, film and voiceover actor.  I’m also a print model.  I like a steady stream of income so I also work part-time as a payroll administrator for a major entertainment law firm.

Synergy!  What do you wear to the office?

 I would describe my typical everyday style as "nice casual and conservative," meaning usually a collared shirt (polo or button-up) with slacks and leather shoes.  My office job is a casual environment, but since it's a law firm I like to keep it semi-professional and don't wear jeans all the time although they're  acceptable.  I often have to go from the office to auditions, and for auditions I like to dress for whatever the part is.  Since khakis (beige, navy, olive, or black) are so widely accepted and versatile, that's what I wear most often.  Then I switch my shirts to match the audition roles.  I usually keep my audition shirts hanging in the car so as not to wrinkle them before the audition.

Tell me a bit about men's style in LA?

Well, I’m a native of Memphis, TN and moved to LA from Richmond, VA.  In LA, everyone's MUCH more laid back.  For instance, I feel that in LA, only certain industries require employees to "dress up" with shirt & tie:  law firms with offices in downtown LA, or banking/financial companies.  Everyone else is pretty much business casual or casual on a daily basis.  It's a much freer environment & feel than other cities, and men seem to embrace their own individual styles much more readily.  Part of this is because LA is the entertainment capital of the world, so creativity is encouraged more than other places, and this is reflected in men's dress and overall appearance as well.  Hair styles are also much freer.

Do you have a style icon?

    

 I don't - but there are three men whose styles I admire: Will Smith, Don Cheadle,  and Courtney B. Vance.  They all seem to always look nice and well-kept in photos & public appearances.  Will always seems to add his own flair to his outfits without it looking "over-the-top" or like he's trying to garner attention.  And Don & Courtney are always well-put-together--they both also have complexions similar to mine, so I'm mindful of that.

What's the last clothing item you bought?   

A pair of beige Merona khakis from Target that I haven't even worn yet.  I own more pairs of beige khakis than any other item of clothing.  I think somehow I feel you can never have too many.

Have you ever considered an alternative to khakis?

An alternative to khakis?  Hmmm...no, I can't say that I've considered such.  It's usually either those or jeans.  Every once in a while I wear true dress slacks, but that's usually only for auditions.  But hey, I'm open to suggestions!

Sales, Sales, Sales!

Semi-annual men's sales at Nordstrom and Brooks Brothers.  This is still a great time to stock up on essentials and diversify your wardrobe without paying full price!

A Little Q&A on Office Casual

Check out a recent exchange on LinkedIn.  Do you have a question?  Feel free to email me at beltorsupsenders@gmail.com or hit me up on Twitter @belt_suspenders

http://lnkd.in/8d2MAa

Extra 20% off at Thomas Pink

Sale on shirts, ties and accessories starts tomorrow. Use code FD200611 at check out for extra 20% off from June 16 - 19. www.us.thomaspink.com

Necktie Help

For a few hours every week, the home I grew up turned into a haberdasher's shop.  To get ready for church, my dad and I pulled out the shoe shine kit and polished our shoes.  We picked out our suits and ironed our shirts.  If we were wearing a new item, my mom made sure the fit was right.  And of course, we had to have the perfect necktie. 

Wearing a necktie is one of the first rites of manhood.  It's an early display of one's sartorial style and can put one a few steps ahead of those still wearing a clip-on.  As such, a man should teach a young man how to tie a tie as my father taught me.  Every time I tie a four in hand knot, I re-connect to my father and to his father and so on.

Do you have a son or nephew or young man in your life who needs you to teach him one of the foundations of manliness? Let me recommend http://www.tie-a-tie.net/.  The site's mission is simple.  It aims to teach people how to tie a tie.  There are step by step video instructions and helpful necktie tips.

This site won't replace the one on one time spent teaching a young man how to tie a necktie but now you have a ready resource.  Take advantage of it.  You'll look like a genius.

A Short on Men's Shorts

The warm weather has finally returned gentlemen and believe it or not, there are a few companies remaining that still spring for a summer boondoggle for their employees.  If you don’t work for one of them, I’m assuming you are well rounded enough to have a social life and a vacation planned thus, a little advice on wearing shorts. 

Shorts should be as flattering on your physique as your pants except that rather than hitting the top of your shoes, your shorts should stop just above your knee.  Leg lengths vary so you’ll need to try them on but I suggest going with an inseam of at least 10 inches.  Your shorts should be comfortable around your natural waist and fit close but not snug around your legs.  No shorts hiked up to your navel but no sagging either.

Madras is the current trend in men’s shorts and with so many variations there is a pair that will compliment any complexion.  However, if madras is too trendy for you, play it safe and go with a light khaki or seersucker.  You’ll look great at both the company outing and on your summer vacation.

No Comment

Nick Cannon in a Moods of Norway suit and Tom Ford shirt.  I have nothing further to say about this.

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Bow Ties at Work: The Great Debate

A colleague called me the other day.  After we discussed that for which we get remunerated, he switched gears and asked a simple style question.  “When wearing a bow tie, can I wear it with a suit or should I wear a sport coat?”  My answer was “either.”  But his question made me think about how guys are hesitant to rock a bow tie at work.  Functionally, it’s as useless as a necktie but the necktie became the standard for work.  Some guys worry about being taken seriously if they wear a bow tie or becoming known as “the guy that wears bow ties.”

It’s common to see bow ties worn in the medical and legal professions and in academia. 

And bow ties are certainly associated with black or white tie events and recently have caught on with younger guys.  However with a couple of exceptions, like the recent camo trend, a bow tie can be blended into any work wardrobe.  It just needs to be appropriate for your workplace and your personal style.

First order of business, learn how to tie a bow tie.  Clip-on bow ties are not acceptable and all attempts to be taken seriously will be thwarted by the clip-on.  Further, a clip-on will cause great harm to the male adult bow tie wearing population as your lack of tying skill will make people question your brethren.  Seriously though, there are plenty of guides available and you can see one tied step by step on http://www.youtube.com/ or http://www.ehow.com/.  Also, tying your own bow tie allows you to personalize it. 

Second, take a similar approach to selecting a bow tie as you do a necktie.  Make sure the color compliments your complexion.  Consider the scale of the pattern and of course it should be work appropriate. 

Third and most importantly, pick your shirt wisely.  There’s a lot of real estate between your neck and your waistline and it’s exposed when you wear a bow tie.  I prefer a shirt with vertical stripes.  A shirt with a contrasting collar looks good too.  If solid color shirts are your thing, I recommend a pocket square in a color that brings the bow tie and shirt together.

Don’t be afraid to mix things up a bit.  There are a slew of great bow tie patterns out there appropriate for any environment.  So go ahead.  Tie one on.

You will not be taken seriously if you attend a meeting wearing a tie with your favorite team's logo emblazoned across the front.  You just won't.  And it doesn't matter which team it is.

--

Marcus - Menswear Consultant and Stylist

www.beltorsuspenders.blogspot.com

www.beltorsuspenders.com

A well dressed man enhances his surroundings.

Guys: Happy Wife = Happy Life. Get those Mothers Day gifts.

Frank Sinatra: A swagger architect

Going to a Wedding? Getting dressed shouldn't be a royal pain.

“She’s Royal.  So Royal.” – Tarrus Riley

Congrats to Kate Middleton now known as the Duchess of Cambridge and future Queen Consort of England. (Talk about a come up!)   I'm willing to bet that no one reading this post attended the Royal Wedding.  Also, I’m willing to bet that someone reading this post will attend a non-royal wedding this spring or summer and has given little to no thought as to what to wear.

I've noticed over the last 15 years that the attire worn by wedding guests has become increasingly casual.  Now I'm not for all of the formalities involved in high post weddings but when deciding what to wear, I think you should recognize that a wedding is a special day for your boy and his bride and wearing the same clothes you wore to the bachelor party won't cut it.

I'm all about keeping it simple so here are a few tips that will help you be the most stylish yet casual guest at the wedding.

1. If it’s not black tie, don't wear black and white.  Assume that the bride and groom are going traditional.  No one should wear white besides the bride anyway and by avoiding black, you won't be confused for a groomsman and asked to escort Aunt Edna up the aisle.

2. Unless otherwise instructed, wear a jacket and a tie.  It doesn't matter if the wedding is being held on a subway platform in August; the occasion dictates at least that level of effort.  Put on a suit jacket or sport coat and pair it with a shirt and tie in an appropriate color for the season.  If it is going to be hot outside, consider a khaki or seersucker suit.  A jacket and tie will let folks know that you're a grown man but when the reception is jumping you can loosen up and twirl the jacket over your head.

3. Leave your socks at home.  Seriously.  Going sockless is a subtle way to make your jacket/tie combo a little more casual.  Just make sure you put some baby powder in your shoes and some lotion on your ankles.

Dressing like a man for a wedding, royal or not, doesn't have to be a royal pain.

Wearing a bow tie at work is fun unless you're required to wear one.

You can wear a belt or you can wear suspenders but under no circumstance should you wear both.

Happy Easter from Belt or Suspenders!

Ebony - Ivory - Living In Perfect Harmony

I don’t know about you but I’m never excited about wearing a black suit, especially with a white shirt.  When I put them on I look like a kinder, gentler Grim Reaper.  So on a recent trip to Philly, I took particular note of a guy who managed to make black and white stand out in a room full of color.  He made the color combination interesting by wearing a black and white glen plaid topcoat and he personalized it with his accessories.  It was balanced and stylish.  Here’s my take on it and a few pointers on how to achieve a similar look.

1.        Break it up – Keep the solids to a minimum.  Instead of a solid white shirt, try a vertical stripe or one with a windowpane design.  For your necktie, if you have to wear a black one, select one with a small pattern.  It’ll add the subtle interest need.

2.       Add some texture – There are a couple of ways to do this but I chose to ditch the black jacket in favor of grey with a mini-check.  You could also wear a knit or wool tie with a complimentary pocket square.

3.       Make it your own – The guy in Philly had on a great bowtie and was carrying a brown leather messenger bag.  I wore a two inch tie-bar on the underside of my tie and an Irish linen handkerchief for balance.

So there you have it.  Black and white doesn’t have to be so black and white.

Commitment Issues With Your Glasses?

“You’re blind!  And you can’t see.  You need to wear some glasses like DMC.” – Run DMC

Thinking about freshening up your eyewear?  My advice is to keep it simple.  There are a couple of basic things to do first.  1) Know the shape of your face.  A square face looks best in rounded frames and an oval face looks best in a rectangular frame.  2) Consider where you’ll wear your glasses when picking a color. 

There are lots of great frames out there that won’t break the bank so I suggest getting two pair.  I recently took a client to Lens Crafters and the selection was impressive.  If you want to go the independent route, check out Moscot in New York.  The staff is knowledgeable and their selection is deep and unique.  Get a neutral for the office and a pair with a little flavor for the evenings and weekends.   

If after all of this, don’t worry if you don’t like the glasses you bought.  It’s just a pair of glasses, not a wife and your old glasses will easily take you back.

Kinda Blue

So I did a little shopping over the weekend and it is true.  Blue shoes are everywear.  And not just the gators you see in Detroit or in church on Easter Sunday, but blue shoes that you can actually wear to work or with a smart weekend look.  From Wingtips to Loafers, designers from Johnston & Murphy to 1901 have some nice options.  Get a pair and get the blues.

It's Spring Again! - Part Two

Despite yesterday's snow, Spring is finally here and the color specialists at Pantone have decided that the following are the Spring 2011 colors for men.

Don't bother to remember the names.  However, you will see a lot of pants, shirts and shorts in the brighter colors in retail stores this year.  We've seen these colors before albeit brighter (think Cross Colours circa 1990) but unlike their last 15 minutes of fame, they aren't to be worn together.  This time around, pick one item from this color list and pair it with navy blue or dark blue.  Let the bright colored item do all of the work.  If that sounds a little dull, add a belt, necktie or watchband in a complimentary color.

"It's Spring Again. Everybody Knows It's Spring Again." - Biz Markie

What better time is there than this to have Biz Markie's "It's Spring Again" on my playlist. 

After a beast of a Winter I'm happy to finally be able to peel off a few layers.  Problem is though, it's still cold outside.  Not freezing of course but not time to break out the windbreaker either.  So how do I transition into Spring?  Lighten up.

You've covered youself up with wool coats since Thanksgiving.  Now is the time to rest the toggle coat or wool cashmere top coat you bought for yourself at Christmas and let your all weather coat see the light of day.  Despite the name the all weather coat is best for this time of the year and if you have one with a zip out lining you can fight off the lingering chill in the air.  A 3/4 length nylon or cotton jacket in a dark neutral color is good for work too and you can finally wear your butter soft leather jacket on the weekends.  Just make sure it's current.  If you bought it when Biz Markie was on celebrity fit club you might need to get a new one.

Lighten up on the accessories too.  Swap out your wool hat for a cotton or linen one and your wool scarves for a versatile silk or linen one that you'll wear a lot.  Silk scarves can get pricey but I found some reasonably priced at http://www.cheap-neckties.com/.  And if you still want to wear gloves there are plenty of leather options however, I recommend a cotton glove.  I have a heather grey pair by Ralph Lauren that are great for a rainy Spring morning.  The fingertips of the thumb and index fingers slide back as well so I can use play my favorite Biz Markie joints on my iPhone.

Finally, don't forget to acquire a good umbrella.  There are thousands of black umbrellas to pick from but I say use your umbrella to make a statement.  Spend a little extra and get one with a wooden handle, muted pattern and a metal tip.  I had a great umbrella once.  It had a burnt orange and tan pattern and on a rainy night I had it with me at a bar.  I put it away for safekeeping but when I came back to get it, it was gone.  To this day, I have no idea who took it.  If you see Biz Markie with an umbrella. . . . .

Hats - There Is One Out There For You

The men's hat is one of the most curious of men's accessories.  It was once as common a component of a man's wardrobe as socks.  Nowadays, some would have you think the hat has gone the way of a New York Knicks win streak - practically non-existent.  And if you wear a hat, some have would you think people will respond like they would to a New York Knicks win streak - What?  The Knicks won again?

But I find that the hat is alive and well.  I went to the Barney's Warehouse Sale the other night and there were a couple of bins of great hats.  Wool.  Cotton.  Patterns.  Brims/No Brims.  Then the next morning I saw a guy on his way to work rocking his fitted Mets cap with a suit and a tie.  (Tip - If you try this play it safe and wear a black fitted.  Save your green and orange Miami hat for the weekend.  Or maybe just keep it in the closet.)  Guys still wear hats.  And in addition to adding style, hats protect in the Summer and help retain warmth in the Winter. 

Any man can look good in a hat.  It's just a matter of knowing the shape of your face and the subtle differences in hats when selecting one.

Check out Black Thought of The Roots (Government name Tariq Trotter).  This dude wears hats often and always looks good in them.  Why?  Because the hats he wears balance his strong jaw line and chin.  This Fedora looks good on him because the crown is slightly tapered and it's not too high.  The slight tilt is on point too. 

So don't be worried about standing out when wearing a hat.  Once you find the right one, you'll enjoy all of the attention you'll get.  Sort of like the Knicks finding Amare and Melo.

NBA Style

NBA All Star Weekend - LA Style!  All Star Studded!  It's been non-stop in LA for the last week starting with The Grammys, The Grammy parties, NBA parties, Slam Dunk Contest and the All Star Game.  And then more parties!

Thanks in part to the NBA Dress Code, there were a lot of suits on display in LA this past weekend.  Lebron, D Wade and Chris Bosh got it right as usual.  Their suits fit great, the colors are complimentary and the styling is current.  (I could do without the diamond studs but hey, they do play in the NBA.) 

To get it right, the Big Men have to be cautious about patterns, scale and proportions.  (Did anyone notice Dwight Howard's skinny tie on Saturday?  Wearing a tie is great.  Wearing a skinny tie when you're 6'9" and 265 lbs.?  Not great.)  And with that, a few style tips for current and future NBA players and the guys built like them.

Don't go too small on the patterns.  Select one that compliments your build.  Pick a shirt with a collar that will sit properly on your frame.  Make sure your jacket and lapel are appropriate for your shoulder width.  And of course, make sure your tie is long enough and wide enough.  It shouldn't look like a chest protector  but it shouldn't look like you've tied your laces around your neck either.

The shoes. The shoes? It's gotta be the shoes.

A pair of polished shoes can make almost any men's suit look better and a dull scratched up pair can diminish the impact of even the best fitting suit.  Despite knowing this, I've never sat and gotten my shoes polished. 

Painting by Gerald Boersma

That all changed this afternoon at John Allan's.  After getting a haircut and massage, I got a great shoe shine and picked up some tips.  If your shoes are new, don't worry about matching the color of the polish to the leather.  Use a neutral creme on the shoe and polish as you would normally.  If your shoes are older and creased, you'll definitely want to use a colored polish.  The goal here is to bring the shoes back to life by conditioning the leather and restoring the color.  You'll need to buff and re-apply a few times to get the shine you want.  Once they're dry use cedar shoe trees to restore the shape and your footwear will be like new.

Whose Clothes Are These Anyway?

I saw the King's Speech the other night.  Great movie and a great story.  The acting was superb.  But I was also struck by how well the clothes fit the characters.  Now I know this was a movie and they had stylists and all that but it got me thinking about how important it is to have a good tailor.  I've been to a number of tailors over the years and all some could do is hem pants.  Needless to say they didn't get much of my business.  Recently I found a guy close to where I live that makes men's suits so he is great at altering my clothes.  He's expensive but worth it because he knows how clothes should fit. 

Here are some tips for selecting a good tailor.  Make the effort to find one you're comfortable with and who you'll use again.  Trust me.  It's worth it.

From a 2008 posting on customtailor.wordpress.com

* Find out how much experience the tailor has in providing the kind of alteration services you are looking for.
* Make sure to ask the tailor to show the sample of the work he has been doing in the past.
* Look for referrals from friends and testimonials from other customers.
* Always choose a less busy time of the day for giving your tailor measurements and explaining the job.
* Be very clear about the alterations you are looking for. Explain what you need to the tailor in clear specific terms and check if the tailor has understood your ideas clearly. If the tailor makes the alterations without understanding what you have in mind, you can very well end up with a damaged piece of clothing.
* And of course, remember to check the alteration price list or get a cost estimate before handing over your job.

Punxsutawney Phil Didn't See His Shadow but He Also Doesn't Commute to Work

So until Spring arrives (hopefully by Cinco de Mayo) you'll need to stay layered up for warmth.  Start with the layer closest to the skin, the base layer, and purchase a set of lightweight silk thermals.  I can vouch for the Lands' End men's thermals.  These come in three colors and in tall sizes to protect those wrists and ankles.

Speaking of ankles, switch out those cotton socks (they hold moisture thus keeping your feet cold) for wool socks (they repel moisture).  I've been adding pairs of Ralph Lauren lambswool socks when I can find them.  They are affordable and come in a great variety of colors so they're also an easy way to make things interesting.  And women notice socks so this is a win-win situation!

The next layer is the insulating layer.  This one protects you against the cold by trapping air close to your body.  Again, stick with wool.  If you wear suits to work, hopefully you've purchased worsted wool suits so you're good.  If you're work attire is more casual, swap those khaki pants for wool pants and add a thin merino wool sweater over your button-up.  You'll look professional and stay warm during the day without the bulk.

The top layer is the shell.  This one protects you from the elements - wind, rain or snow.  An outer shell is an important piece in bad weather, because if wind and water are allowed to penetrate to your inner layers, you begin to cool off.  Furthermore, without proper ventilation, perspiration can't evaporate but instead condenses on the inside of your shell.  You'll need two coats to be covered in this category.  Wool for the windy and dry days and a water resistant shell for the rain and snow.

As always, don't forget about fit. Your shell layer should be roomy enough to fit easily over other layers and not restrict your movement because you know, you may need to take those layers off quickly.

Purple Daze

In a symbolic gesture Democrats and Republicans sat together during the State of the Union address and President Obama donned a purple power  tie.  (Remember from elementary school art class?  Blue and Red make Purple.)  I don't know if we'll see any real U-N-I-T-Y over the next two years but I'm jumping on the bandwagon.  But since I'm not the President, I'm bolstering my look with a purple and white gingham shirt. 

This look will add interest to a navy blue wool suit and look great with a gray wool suit.  Add a white pocket square to keep it classy.  A word of advic:.  Don't wear a purple tie to a job interview.  People might think you're too confident.  Remember, you're not the President, yet.

50% Off at Brooks Brothers

Brooks Brothers is having a 50% off Winter clearance sale.  I checked it out today and there's a ton of sweaters, jackets and pants marked down including some updated takes on their classic pieces.  I scored a great pair of slim fit grey twill pants.  The sale will last until the end of January so buy this week before you have to shell out some cash on a Valentine's Day gift.

Golden Globe Inspiration

Ahh yes.  It's award show season.  Oh how Hollywood loves to recognize each others talents and oh how the rest of us like to watch!  And watch we did.  Check out these daper ensembles from Sunday. 




The double breasted jacket is back gentlemen!  Tom Hanks looks great here along with his wife Rita Wilson and the Spielbergs.  Pull out your double breasted jackets this year.  Dress them up or down.

 

Blair Underwood looking smooth as usual in a fitted black jacket with a peak lapel.  Go for a close cut suit this year and show off the physique.  No guarantee though that you'll end up with a lady as pretty as Blair's wife, Desiree DeCosta.

I don't know who this guy is but he got the tone on tone thing right!  Just be careful and keep it modern lest you look like you're hosting Who Wants to be a Millionaire circa 1999.